Herbario’s first article on Dewsia covered the brand as a whole – the centella and fish mint line for oily skin, the herbal medicine tradition, and the pharmacy-grade approach to formulation. This article goes deeper on the second pillar: the butterfly pea (hoa đậu biếc) line, which targets a wholly different skin profile.
Where the centella line addresses oily and acne-prone skin, the butterfly pea line is built for dry, normal, and aging-prone skin. The two lines share a brand philosophy – Vietnamese botanical ingredients, vegan, minimal fragrance – but the ingredients, mechanisms, and target user are distinct.
Fast track:
- What butterfly pea actually does → The ingredient
- The four products and their formulas → The line
- Who it’s for → Who should buy it
- Full Herbario brand profile → Herbario Vietnam: Natural Skincare Rooted in Herbal Tradition
Butterfly Pea: The Ingredient Behind the Line
Butterfly pea (Clitoria ternatea) is a flowering vine native to tropical Asia, recognized in Vietnam as hoa đậu biếc. The vivid indigo-blue colour – used to dye traditional Vietnamese rice dishes and ceremonial drinks – comes from anthocyanins, a class of flavonoids responsible for most of the plant’s documented biological activity.
What the evidence supports:
Antioxidant activity – well-documented. The anthocyanins in butterfly pea flower extract are potent free radical scavengers. In vitro studies consistently confirm antioxidant activity comparable to or exceeding common reference antioxidants. This is the most reliably supported benefit.
Collagen synthesis support – plausible with some evidence. Flavonoids generally support fibroblast proliferation and collagen production. The specific mechanism in butterfly pea involves anthocyanins stimulating elastin and collagen synthesis – the quercetin content contributes to skin moisture balance alongside the structural proteins. The evidence base is smaller than for centella’s equivalent claims, but the mechanism is chemically coherent.
Anti-inflammatory properties – documented. The anthocyanins and flavonoids in Clitoria ternatea have demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity in multiple in vitro models, including inhibition of inflammatory cytokines.
Where the evidence is thinner: Unlike centella asiatica, which has decades of clinical skincare trials, butterfly pea’s evidence base remains primarily in vitro. The collagen synthesis effects documented in cell culture don’t always translate directly to clinical outcomes in topical formulations at standard concentrations. Herbario’s butterfly pea line is a well-reasoned botanical formulation – not a clinically proven anti-aging treatment.
Why Vietnamese butterfly pea specifically: Hoa đậu biếc is genuinely embedded in Vietnamese daily life – used in food coloring, traditional drinks, and increasingly in cosmetics. Herbario is drawing on a local ingredient with a long cultural use history, not importing a novel extract. The sourcing is domestic and traceable.
The Four Products
Butterfly Pea Cleansing Water
Format: Micellar-style cleansing water, suitable as makeup remover and first cleanse.
Key INCI: Water, PPG-30-Buteth-30, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Clitoria Ternatea Flower Extract, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Propanediol, Betaine, Glycereth-26, Butylene Glycol, Panthenol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Oil, Lactic Acid
16 ingredients total. No parabens, silicones, sulfates, or harsh alcohols verified by SkinSort.
What the formula does: The butterfly pea extract and niacinamide sit at positions 5 and 6 in the INCI – early enough to suggest meaningful concentration. Panthenol adds barrier-supporting humectancy. The lactic acid (AHA) at the end of the list provides mild exfoliation at low concentration, appropriate for a rinse-off cleanser format.
Honest limitation: Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Oil appears in the formula. This is a fragrance essential oil – not fragrance-free. For most skin types at standard cosmetic dilution, this is low-risk, but for strictly fragrance-reactive skin, this product requires a patch test before use. Herbario is positioned as a gentle, botanical brand, but “botanical” does not equal “fragrance-free.”
Butterfly Pea Serum
Format: Lightweight serum for daily use.
Key INCI: Water, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Clitoria Ternatea Flower Extract, Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Propanediol, Betaine, Glycereth-26, Sodium Hydroxide, Allantoin, Panthenol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Oil, Lactic Acid
17 ingredients. Niacinamide appears at position 2 – indicating a higher concentration than in the cleansing water. SkinSort confirms no parabens, silicones, sulfates, fragrances (beyond the lavender essential oil), or harsh alcohols.
What the formula does: Niacinamide at position 2 is the primary active – pore refinement, oil control, brightening, barrier support. The butterfly pea extract follows at position 5. Allantoin and panthenol provide soothing and barrier-repair support. Lactic acid at the end contributes mild brightening over time.
The formulation logic: Niacinamide as the lead active makes commercial and functional sense – it has the most consistent clinical evidence across the concerns the line targets (brightening, texture, barrier). Butterfly pea amplifies the antioxidant and collagen-support aspects. The combination is complementary rather than redundant.
The same fragrance caution applies: Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Oil is present. Patch test for fragrance-sensitive skin.
Boosted Serum (Hoa Đậu Biếc)
Format: Concentrated treatment serum, the most active product in the line.
Key ingredients: 2% Bakuchiol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Clitoria Ternatea Flower Extract, and Niacinamide
What makes this product different from the standard serum: The addition of 2% bakuchiol at a stated concentration. Bakuchiol is a plant-derived compound – extracted from Psoralea corylifolia seeds – that has demonstrated retinol-like activity in clinical trials without retinol’s characteristic irritation, photosensitivity, and requirement for careful frequency management.
A 2018 randomized, double-blind clinical trial published in the British Journal of Dermatology found that 0.5% bakuchiol twice daily produced comparable results to 0.5% retinol for facial wrinkle reduction and hyperpigmentation, with significantly lower irritation scores. Herbario uses 2% – four times the concentration used in the pivotal trial – which, if accurately labeled, represents a meaningfully active dose.
Why bakuchiol is important for this line: Retinol is the most evidence-backed anti-aging active available, but it’s unsuitable for daily use without acclimatization, photosensitizes the skin, and is avoided during pregnancy. Bakuchiol addresses the same cellular pathways – stimulating skin cell turnover, supporting collagen synthesis – without these constraints. It can be used daily, morning and evening, without the rotation schedule retinol requires.
Honest limitation: Bakuchiol evidence is promising, but the research base is still limited compared to retinol’s decades of clinical data. “Retinol alternative” is accurate in mechanism and tolerability; it’s not yet proven equivalent in efficacy at the same outcome level. For skin that can tolerate retinol, retinol remains the more evidence-backed choice. For skin that can’t – pregnant skin, reactive skin, first-time users of anti-ageing actives – bakuchiol is a well-supported alternative.
The sodium hyaluronate addition addresses bakuchiol’s one practical limitation: it has no humectant properties itself. Sodium hyaluronate provides the hydration buffer that keeps the formula comfortable for dry skin types.
Butterfly Pea Toner
A hydrating preparatory toner with butterfly pea extract as the signature botanical. Sits between cleansing and serum steps. Lighter concentration of actives than the serums – appropriate as a first step for building the routine or for users who want the butterfly pea ingredient without the more concentrated active delivery of the serums.
Who Should Buy This Line
Well-suited for:
Dry and normal skin types looking for an anti-aging botanical routine without clinical-grade irritants. The Boosted Serum specifically is well-positioned for anyone who wants retinol-like results with a lower irritation ceiling – this includes first-time users of anti-aging actives and anyone who has found retinol too harsh.
People interested in Vietnamese botanical formulations who already use the basics (SPF, cleanser, hydrating toner) and want to add a targeted treatment step. The line slots cleanly into an existing routine without requiring a complete overhaul.
Fragrance-tolerant skin with a preference for minimal, short-ingredient-list products. The 16–17 ingredient count per product is genuinely short for a functional skincare formula.
Less well-suited for:
Strictly fragrance-free or fragrance-reactive skin. The Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Oil in both the cleansing water and the serums rules this out as a truly fragrance-free option. Herbario’s centella and fish mint line is more appropriate for reactive skin – though it also contains fragrance in some products, so INCI checking remains necessary.
Oily and acne-prone skin. The butterfly pea line is not formulated for sebum control. Herbario’s centella and fish mint line addresses oily skin concerns directly. If you’re dealing with active breakouts or congestion, the centella line is the right starting point.
Anyone expecting clinical retinol results from bakuchiol? The bakuchiol evidence is solid for a plant-derived ingredient – but it’s not a like-for-like clinical replacement for retinol at equivalent concentrations. Managing expectations here is important for long-term routine satisfaction.
How to Use the Butterfly Pea Line in a Routine
Morning:
- Butterfly Pea Cleansing Water (if wearing SPF from the previous day)
- Butterfly Pea Toner – pat into damp skin
- Butterfly Pea Serum – 3–4 drops, massage in
- SPF 50+ (non-negotiable when using niacinamide and AHA)
Evening:
- Butterfly Pea Cleansing Water (to remove SPF and makeup)
- Butterfly Pea Toner
- Boosted Serum – 4–6 drops – this is the evening treatment step
Frequency for Boosted Serum: Daily use is appropriate given bakuchiol’s tolerability profile. Unlike retinol, there is no rotation requirement or gradual introduction period for most skin types. Start every other evening if you’re cautious – but daily is the intended usage.
What to pair with: Any hydrating moisturizer for dry skin types, applied after the serum. SPF is mandatory in the morning – the niacinamide and lactic acid combination increases photosensitivity at scale.
Where to Buy
Inside Vietnam: Shopee Official Mall storefront (Herbario Official Store with verified badge), Lazada Official Store, and independent natural beauty stores in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
Outside Vietnam: Humanity Hanoi (humanityhanoi.com) ships internationally from Hanoi and carries Herbario products. No dedicated international e-commerce storefront currently exists for Herbario directly.
Pricing: Shopee Vietnam pricing (approximate, May 2026):
- Butterfly Pea Cleansing Water: ~180,000–220,000 VND (~$7–9 USD)
- Butterfly Pea Serum 30 ml: ~212,500 VND (~$8.40 USD)
- Boosted Serum 30 ml: ~280,000–320,000 VND (~$11–13 USD)
FAQ
Is the Herbario butterfly pea line fragrance-free? No. Both the cleansing water and the serums contain Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Oil – a fragrance essential oil. This is important for fragrance-reactive or strictly fragrance-sensitive skin. The centella and fish mint line may have lower fragrance inclusion in some formulations – check INCI lists individually.
How does bakuchiol compare to retinol? Bakuchiol stimulates similar cellular pathways to retinol – supporting skin cell turnover and collagen synthesis – with significantly lower irritation and no photosensitivity. A 2018 clinical trial found comparable outcomes to 0.5% retinol at 0.5% bakuchiol concentration. Herbario’s Boosted Serum uses 2%. For skin that can tolerate retinol, retinol remains more extensively studied. For skin that can’t – due to sensitivity, pregnancy, or irritation history – bakuchiol is the most evidence-backed plant-derived alternative available.
Can I use the Boosted Serum every day? Yes. Bakuchiol does not require the gradual introduction or rotation schedule that retinol demands. Daily morning and evening use is appropriate for most skin types.
Is this line suitable for oily skin? Not primarily. The butterfly pea line is formulated for dry, normal, and aging-prone skin. Oily and acne-prone skin is better served by Herbario’s centella and fish mint line, which addresses sebum control and antibacterial concerns more directly.
